Vancouver is a much larger city than Victoria by a few orders of magnitude, and yet as a cab driver who worked in both cities I can vouch for the fact that Victoria is much the harder to learn. Vancouver has a few peculiarities but it is mostly built on a grid pattern. Outside of the downtown areas most of the east -west streets are numbered and the north-south streets have names. Kingsway, the original route to New Westminster, is the main peculiarity because it runs diagonally to the grid pattern. This confuses the newcomer but the numbering system is still fairly logical. The other peculiarity is that the numbering of addresses don't correspond to the street numbers. Broadway, which would be 9th if it had a number, is actually the 2500 block.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Vic West
Vancouver is a much larger city than Victoria by a few orders of magnitude, and yet as a cab driver who worked in both cities I can vouch for the fact that Victoria is much the harder to learn. Vancouver has a few peculiarities but it is mostly built on a grid pattern. Outside of the downtown areas most of the east -west streets are numbered and the north-south streets have names. Kingsway, the original route to New Westminster, is the main peculiarity because it runs diagonally to the grid pattern. This confuses the newcomer but the numbering system is still fairly logical. The other peculiarity is that the numbering of addresses don't correspond to the street numbers. Broadway, which would be 9th if it had a number, is actually the 2500 block.
Thursday, October 28, 2010
November 2
A review of The Closing of the Muslim Mind appears in the American Spectator today under the title, Faith Without Reason. Sounds interesting but nowhere near as profound as comments made by Pope Benedict on the same subject in his Regensburg Lecture of 2006.
Monday, October 25, 2010
Stormy weather
The first storm of the season has arrived. It's not much of a storm so far. A few broken branches, falling leaves, a bit of wind, a heavy drizzle, are not enough to keep Victorians inside. We will have worse. We might even get snow...in the mountains. And it will get darker, gloomier, and the darkness and gloom will feel endless. But then most years we will get breaks of sunshine while we wait for spring, and by the end of January we will start to look for crocuses and daffodils to start blooming.
In the meantime, Halloween is approaching. The word means Hallowed Evening, but the meaning of what is hallowed is almost forgotten. It's the evening before All Souls Day, an occasion in the formerly Christian countries to pay homage to one's ancestors, or it may be children or spouses taken away prematurely. Families would make pilgrimages to the cemetery and gather around the graves, sometimes bringing offerings. It was a day when death was remembered, when people reminded themselves that it is the fate of all who are born. And yet, the homage paid to the dead is also an acknowledgement that something of the person survives death, and instinctively we feel closer to the deceased when we are near their bodily remains. The evening before was when we feared they would be walking the earth, and that's the origin of the games of dress-up we play now, and the handouts were meant to avert the ill-will of the formerly living. Such rituals were among us long before Christianity came along.
On Saturday I was surprised to see a procession along Douglas Street. It was quite a long procession, perhaps two or three blocks. The police were standing by to direct traffic. Rather than mourning death, the paraders seemed to be celebrating it, seemed to think it was an object of amusement. Most of them were young, some were parents with small children, all dressed up in ragged clothing, their faces disfigured with the semblance of death and violence. Blood, pallor, wounds, shambling gaits, and periodical screeches were all in good fun, I guess. But I am slightly superstitious about some things, and one of my superstitions is that by imagining something you help to bring it about. So why would a parent dress up his small child to imitate death? I wonder. What is amusing about that? It seems really wrong to me. It's called tempting fate.
Some of the most enthusiastic screamers were young teen age girls, expressing their inner banshees, who would be quite pretty if they weren't dressed up like the walking dead. And these same girls, if they should lose a friend in an auto accident would tell the news anchor how devastated they were. Are they defying death or inviting it when they mock it? Have they given a thought to the reality of death?
I do remember vividly my first Halloween. I had no idea what it was about, but I knew I would not, absolutely would not, dress up like a girl, the way the ladies of the household had planned. I don't know what compromise was reached. Probably I became a cowboy or a pirate, like most boys. But I know I won that argument. No girl I! Girls were most often angels or fairies. We didn't yell 'Trick or Treat' then, we chanted "Halloween Apples." Parents didn't escort us, either. They just shoved us out the door into the dark.
On Sunday the rain held off and so it must have been a good day for a sailing race. I happen to think that sailboats are one of man's most beautiful creations. The race viewed from above with a backdrop of sea, rock and sky was especially beautiful. A sailboat, you see, must be in balance with all the forces of nature. It's a test of man's ingenuity to use those forces for his own benefit. Is it simply fortuitous that the result is beautiful? For a sailor, the job of balancing all those forces becomes play. Whose boat, whose skills will best allow him to go around the Trial islands the quickest, regardless of the wind's direction or velocity. This is a defiance of death as well, as a boat with a ton of lead in its keel can sink quite handily, thank you. But it's one I much prefer to dressing up in grave clothes.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Around Chinatown
When downtown I usually take my morning coffee in the genteel surrounds of Murchies or the cosmopolitan atmosphere of the Starbucks in Chapters, but sometimes I walk into town along the upper harbour and then across the railroad side of the Blue Bridge and from there it's more natural to turn toward the Bean Around the World outlet on Fisgard Street. The establishment comes by its name honestly as the proprietor, an Englishman, sold the yacht he had sailed around the world in with his family when he settled in Victoria. Chinatown is Victoria's minuscule Bohemian district and Bean Around the World is where many of the middle class population of Victoria who play at being Bohemian take their coffee. Bohemianism, not being what it used to be, is no longer the province of the outcast, and is now mostly characterized by that extreme form of almost pathological conformism called politically correctness. It's almost an idolatry. Anyway, this is where they come to mumble their pieties to each other. Depending on my mood the aura can be oppressive or amusing. Ironically, the owner of the place doesn't have a politically correct bone in his body. There is something about regular ale quaffing that confers immunity from the disease, and I see him at Swans around the corner as often as at his java joint.
I became familiar with the place when it was the home of Cafe Philosophy. I was at the very first meeting more than a dozen years ago and for a long time attended it regularly as it moved from place to place. As it migrated Cafe Philosophy gradually sloughed off any attendees who might have had anything interesting or provocative to say. This was due to the personality of the organizer of the event, one Michael Picard. Possibly he had some interest in ideas though I never saw any evidence of it. Possibly he didn't believe the lumpen proletariat had any business pretending to think for themselves. A PhD in philosophy from MIT is really a certification warranting that the recipient has been purged of any tendency toward original thought and the resulting creature treats interesting thoughts like little Miss Muffet treats spiders. Eek. Politically correct groupthink, not philosophy, seemed to be Michael's guiding principle. I'm pretty sure he was convinced of his own superior qualities and so it must have been quite humiliating for him to be stuck with such a paltry job. I don't know if Cafe Philosophy still exists somewhere. Somebody told me that Michael had at last found a real job at a university. Undoubtedly he will share with the academic community his experiences among the unwashed.
I noticed a long time ago that people with ideas have very little money and people with money have very few ideas… as a general rule. Not all ideas are good. Some are bad. Most are not so new. The only way to find out is to submit them to the Darwinian ordeal of free enterprise. So for a city to have a creative heart it needs a low rent district so those people with lots of ideas but not much money can get a start. Unfortunately, even in the rather seedy part of town that surrounds Chinatown the rents are quite high. Still, this is where you will find Victoria's highest concentration of niche and odd ball shops. Government, Johnson, Pandora, Wharf are where to look for them. Especially notable are Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in Canada, and Market Square. Honestly, I don't know how these places are able to make a living. And judging by the turnover of shops in the area I guess many of them don't. But it's a tribute to the entrepreneurial spirit that another optimistic and enthusiastic soul will be ready to fill the gap left when another goes down. People who want to be their own bosses, people who get excited about an idea, who want to try something new, something from their own imaginations, and are willing to hustle and work and take risks have my admiration. I like these kind of people. Sometimes I want to buy something from them even though I'm really not the kind of person who likes to accumulate things.
That was why I was initially so enthusiastic about Cafe Philosophy. Let's talk about ideas in a public, commercial setting where anyone can walk in and take part in the give and take of an exchange of ideas. It can be contentious but when moderated by someone with a genuine interest and knowledge of philosophy and the kind of personality to keep the discussion moving and courteous, I thought it could turn Victoria into a modest echo of Periclean Athens. I was really disappointed in the way it fizzled out.
But even though I'm not that crazy about shopping, I enjoy looking in the windows and seeing the turn of the 19th and 20th century buildings where they are sheltered. Why are older buildings so much more pleasing to the eye and the soul than their modern equivalents? They suit each other, the new shops and the old buildings.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
The Chinese Cemetery
One of the things I like about Victoria is that it has such a variety of obscure and highly distinct neighbourhoods tucked away where the casual visitor would never think to look. Not far east from Clover Point along the south shore, on a peninsula that separates Gonzales and McNeill bays, is one of those neighbourhoods. I don't know if it has a name, but it has a couple of distinguishing features. Best known is the Chinese cemetery, used in the early days of Victoria. It was somewhat derelict for years but is now well looked after. It's on a beautiful spot overlooking the Strait. You can see Clover Point from here, and when the air is clear, the Olympic Mountains and Port Angeles across the way.
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Clover Point
When I was at Clover Point the other day it was clear but this morning a low-lying mist blankets Victoria. It's being quickly dissipated by the October sun's slanting rays. A foghorn's mournful tones seem to emerge from nowhere, everywhere, directionless. Here at Clover Point it is calm, the tide partway out, the water pooling among the rocks is still and clear. Birds skim the water.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Ogden point
All the ships are gone, and a wintry tranquility settles on James Bay. Fleets of tour buses are silent, hibernating, and it's possible to get a seat at the Ogden Point Cafe. I don't think there is any doubt that this cafe has the best ocean view of any in Victoria. Right above the dive shop, it looks out over the half mile long curve of the breakwater where waves thunder on blustery days. Today is not blustery. Today, the ocean sparkles. The sky is blue. The air has an autumnal briskness to it. Walkers stroll out to the navigation light. The haze in the sky toward Port Angeles would be hardly noticeable if it weren't for the vague dreaminess of the Olympics. Absent the haze they are overwhelmingly massive. When the haze increases, they are invisible. This is the time of the year when the sun's rays come to us northerners at an angle, illuminating everything in a soft glow, especially in late afternoon.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Victoria yards
Suddenly, the leaves are changing. Lots of green on the trees still, but not for long. So it was a treat to have a day like yesterday, a day to store up in the memory banks to call up when the dark days close in on us. I gravitated toward Willows Beach as I often do on a beautiful day. My idea of a beautiful day is warm sun and cool air, and that's the way it was on Saturday. Cool enough to discourage sunbathers but warm enough for walking down Estevan Street and along the beach. There's something about Willows Beach that I like. Victoria has lots of beaches but I always end up there. It was warm enough for kids to splash in the water and dig in the sand, too. A breeze off shore was enough to fill the spinnakers for the crowd of sailors racing around the pylons.